How Do We Take Care Of Trees?

Trees do a lot of work around Perth. They throw shade across a hot yard, soften a hard-looking street, shelter birds, and make a property feel settled. A healthy tree can outlast fences, paving and even the house beside it. But that only happens when it is looked after properly.

I’ve seen young trees thrive because they were planted well and watered properly, and I’ve seen others struggle because the basics were missed from day one. Usually, it is not one dramatic mistake. It is a handful of small ones that pile up over time: planting too deep, watering too lightly, pruning too hard, or leaving a problem until it turns into a bigger one. The good news is that sound tree maintenance is not complicated. It just needs to be done properly and at the right time. That steady approach fits Tree Amigos’ practical, safety-first style and decades of hands-on arboricultural work in Perth.

Start Strong: Pick the Right Tree for the Right Spot

Good tree care starts before the tree goes into the ground. A sapling in a pot may look harmless, but the wrong tree in the wrong place is trouble brewing.

Match the species to your site

In Perth, the site matters. Coastal blocks deal with wind and salt. Inland suburbs often have sandy soils, tight access, limestone and hard summer heat. Before planting, think about the soil, drainage, sun, wind, and the tree’s mature size. A species that works beautifully in a large open block may be a headache on a smaller suburban lot.

Native or climate-suited trees are often a smart choice because they are better adapted to local conditions. Even so, not every native suits every yard. A large-growing tree planted too close to a house, boundary fence, pool or power line can become an expensive problem later.

Think long-term, not just what looks good now

This is where many people come unstuck. They choose a tree for how it looks today, not how it will behave in ten or twenty years. We have seen plenty of Perth properties where a tree was planted for quick appeal and later needed heavy pruning or full removal because it outgrew the space.

“The right tree in the right place saves a lot of grief later.”

Quick checklist before planting

1. How tall and wide will it get?
2. Is there room from buildings and fences?
3. Are there overhead power lines nearby?
4. Does the soil drain properly?
5. Will it handle Perth’s heat and local conditions?

Plant It Properly or Pay for It Later

A lot of tree decline starts on planting day. Not years later. Right then and there.

Dig the right hole

The planting hole should be wider than the root ball, but not deeper. Two to three times wider is a good guide. Tree roots spread outward more than downward, so a broad hole gives them a better chance to move into surrounding soil.

Keep the root flare visible

The root flare is where the trunk widens and becomes roots. It should sit at ground level or slightly above it. If it is buried under soil or mulch, the tree is too deep.

That sounds minor, but it causes real trouble. A buried root flare can lead to collar rot, circling roots, poor oxygen access and long-term decline. Many people miss it because the tree may still leaf up for a while. It just never truly gets going.

Backfill and water in properly

Backfill with the original soil unless there is a clear reason not to. Firm it gently, then water it deeply to settle the soil around the roots. Freshly planted trees usually need steady moisture and time more than they need fertiliser.

Watering Trees Properly in Perth’s Heat

If a young tree is going to struggle in Perth, poor watering is often at the centre of it.

How often should you water?

Watering depends on species, soil and weather, but this is a solid guide:

Time after planting	General watering guide
Weeks 1 to 2	Daily or every 2 to 3 days
Weeks 3 to 6	Once or twice a week
First summer	Deep watering each week, more during extreme heat
After establishment	Water during long dry spells as needed

Sandy Perth soils dry quickly, especially during a rough run of hot weather.

Deep watering beats a quick sprinkle

A short spray over the lawn is not the same as watering a tree. Light sprinkling encourages shallow roots. Slow, deep watering pushes moisture down into the soil and encourages roots to follow. That gives the tree a better chance when summer bites hard.

Use a hose, soaker line or watering bag to wet the root zone properly. The aim is to soak the soil, not just dampen the surface.

Check before you water

Do not guess. Check the soil a few centimetres below the surface near the root zone. If it feels dry, water it. If it is still moist, hold off. Overwatering can be just as harmful as underwatering because roots still need oxygen.

Signs of water stress can include:

• wilting or dull leaves
• early leaf drop
• dry soil below the surface
• poor new growth

Mature trees may also need support during long dry spells, especially where paving or compacted soil has reduced root space.

Mulch Done Right: Keep Roots Cooler, Wetter and Safer

Mulch is one of the easiest wins in tree maintenance. It helps hold moisture, softens temperature swings in the soil, and reduces competition from grass and weeds.

Why mulch matters

A proper mulch ring helps young trees establish faster and older trees hold moisture longer. It also protects the trunk from mower and whipper snipper damage, which is more common than people realise.

How to mulch properly

Clear grass and weeds first, then spread organic mulch, such as wood chips or bark, in an even layer about 5 to 10 centimetres deep. Extend it as wide as practical.

The key rules are simple:

• keep mulch off the trunk
• spread it evenly
• top it up as it breaks down

Mulch donut good, mulch volcano bad

Do not pile mulch against the trunk. That “mulch volcano” look traps moisture against the bark and can encourage decay and pests. Leave a clear gap around the base.

Tree Pruning That Helps Instead of Hurts

Pruning is where many trees are helped or harmed. Good pruning has a purpose. It is not random cutting to make a tree look smaller.

What pruning should achieve

A proper prune can improve structure, remove deadwood, create clearance, reduce weight on long limbs, and improve airflow through the canopy. Tree Amigos positions pruning as a real strength, and for good reason: not every cut is the same, and poor pruning can create future problems.

Don’t over-prune young trees

Young trees need leaf area to build energy and establish roots. In the first couple of years, pruning should usually be light and corrective only. Remove dead, broken or badly placed branches, then let the tree get on with establishing.

Cut in the right place

When removing a branch, cut just outside the branch collar. That swollen area at the branch base helps the tree seal the wound. Flush cuts damage it. Leaving long stubs is not much better, because they die back and invite decay.

Never top a tree

Topping is one of the worst things you can do. It stresses the tree, creates weak regrowth, ruins the structure, and often leads to bigger hazards later. It is a short-term fix that usually comes back to bite.

Protect Trees From Everyday Damage

Not all tree damage comes from storms. Much of it comes from day-to-day life.

Staking only when needed

Not every new tree needs staking. Trees build strength by moving in the wind. If staking is needed because the site is exposed or the root ball is unstable, use soft ties and remove them once the tree is established. Leave them on too long and they start doing more harm than good.

Guard the trunk

Young trunks are vulnerable to mower damage, whipper snippers, bikes, pets and garden tools. A simple guard can save a lot of trouble.

Don’t nail things into trees

Signs, hooks, cables and wires all create wounds. Trees can cope with some damage, but repeated punctures open the door to decay and disease.

Watch Soil Health and Early Warning Signs

Healthy trees start with healthy soil. If something is off, the tree usually gives you clues.

Do trees need fertiliser?

Sometimes, but not always. Newly planted trees usually need proper watering and good soil conditions more than fertiliser. Later on, if a tree shows weak growth, poor colour or thinning foliage, a soil test is smarter than guessing.

Signs something is wrong

Keep an eye out for:

• yellowing leaves
• thinning canopy
• dead branch tips
• fungal growth on the base or trunk
• unusual bark cracking
• pests or distorted leaves
• sudden leaning

A tree rarely goes from healthy to hazardous overnight without some warning.

Mature Trees Need a Different Plan

Large established trees are worth protecting. They give the best shade, the most value, and often the strongest visual presence on a property.

Water and root protection matter

Older trees still suffer during drought. They also suffer when people compact the soil around them, pave too close, or dig nearby during renovations. Damage to roots often does not show up straight away, which is why nearby building work can quietly shorten the life of a mature tree.

Mature tree care priorities

Tree stage	Main maintenance focus
Newly planted	Watering, mulch, settling in
Young tree	Structure, light corrective pruning, protection
Established tree	Seasonal checks, pruning, soil and moisture balance
Mature tree	Risk management, drought support, root zone protection

Older fruit trees may also need careful restorative pruning to bring them back into shape and improve production.

When DIY Tree Care Stops Being Safe

There is plenty a homeowner can do well: watering, mulching, observation, and minor pruning from the ground. But once ladders, large limbs or power lines enter the picture, it is time to call a professional.

Call an arborist when:

1. branches are near power lines
2. the tree needs climbing work
3. there is large deadwood in the canopy
4. the tree has suddenly started leaning
5. you can see cracks, splits or decay
6. the problem is high above ground
7. the tree is large and close to structures

Tree work turns dangerous quickly. That is why qualifications, equipment and insurance matter. Tree Amigos’ approach is built around qualified arborists, safe systems, written quotes and practical advice based on what the tree actually needs.

Taking care of trees is not about fancy tricks. It is about doing the basics properly and doing them consistently. Choose the right tree, plant it well, water it deeply, mulch it sensibly, prune with a reason, protect the trunk and roots, and act early when something looks off.

That steady kind of care pays off. It gives you healthier trees, safer gardens, better shade and fewer nasty surprises after the next hot spell or winter blow. In Perth, where trees work hard for every bit of growth, that effort is well worth it.