tree pruning

Advice for Tree Pruning

Tree pruning is a topic that many people are unfamiliar with, and as such, they don’t know how to go about it. But, with the information in this blog post, you’ll be able to take care of your trees!

You’ll find tips on tree types, what tools you need for doing so when to do it depending on the type of tree and more. This will help make sure your trees grow up strong and healthy!

People who want advice on how to prune their trees properly. This blog post will provide them with all the information they need (including some helpful tips) on tree pruning. It’s written with an informative tone that is both friendly and helpful.

You have actually certainly seen a great deal of trees, possibly you have actually even grown some on your own property. However, just how much do you know about trees and what their pruning requires? There are some aspects of this you need to think about.

Trimming Trees In June

You have to comprehend how a tree works to find out the value of tree pruning. In essence, the tree is a complex living organism with a self-supporting system. Minerals and sugars are then used by the tree to flower and produce fruit.

You may wonder why you require to prune trees. The main purpose of pruning is to improve the structure of the tree. In essence, pruning consists of regulated removal of branches, so there is likewise the advantage of clearing broken branches. 

If the tree is, Check out this site planted close to a structure, you might require to prune it simply to offer some clarity. However, you should only prune trees that require it because removing a huge branch produces an opportunity for illness going into the wound or simply damaging the tree by removing a big part of leaf material. 

Eliminating branches is not a safe procedure, as it requires special gear and training. In numerous cases, you require to leave this job to expert arborists, who can quickly manage the job.

To prune a tree properly, you require to understand how branches work. Throughout the incremental development process, the branches grow in which the tree produces a ring of growth. The point where the branch connects itself to the tree is known as the branch bark ridge.

Tree Trimming Suppliers Present Escape From Threats

Pruning ought to not take place at random periods. For these trees, you need to wait for mid-summer or mid-winter pruning.

How much do you understand about trees and what their pruning requires? First, you have to comprehend how a tree works to discover out the importance of tree pruning. 

If the tree is planted close to a structure, you might need to prune it just to provide some clearance. However, you must only prune trees that need it because eliminating a huge branch develops a chance for disease getting in through the wound or merely deteriorating the tree by removing a big part of leaf material. To prune a tree properly, you require to understand how branches work.

Some Simple Things About Palm Tree Trimming

If you have a tree or numerous of them in your garden, you will wish to ensure their well being. However, frequently you may see brown leaves or stunted development, together with a wide variety of other signs of unhealthy trees. Surely the last thing you desire to see from a tree survey is that your plants are having issues.

Handling concerns on your trees must be of utmost importance, as these plants add excellent worth to your house. Knowing how to attend to the most typical problems with trees can help you out exceptionally. Following is a list of issues that your trees might come across and how you can treat them:

Soil compaction – soil compaction is a typical incident in many residential or commercial properties. When trees grow in compressed soil, they don’t establish strong roots and may even stunt their growth. What is more, it is most likely that soil compaction had actually taken place when your house was built, so it is not something you can easily prevent.

Minimised nutrients and mineral recycling – absence of nutrients is another typical incident for trees that share the land with a well-developed yard and other plants. The main difference in between trees in your yard and trees in the forest is that the latter makes the most of a layer of disintegrating leaves. 

That is not the case in your garden, where you likely clear out the area from any plant debris that ends up there. Since it outcompetes trees for water and nutrients, the yard’s existence damaging is likewise a substantial factor for this. 

The way to treat this is to fertilise the tree effectively and use mulch. Start composting today and apply a layer to replenish the nutrients in the soil.

Pests – if your trees are stressed out, they are more likely to become the target of insects. This takes place when trees are not planted in the correct area, they do not get sufficient resources and nutrients.

Root restriction – the roots of a fully grown tree can broaden a fair bit. Often, there is inadequate area for them to grow, or there is some obstacle: buildings, walkways, roads, and so on. 

What you can do is properly feed trees with enough nutrients and enhance soil health. Be on the lookout for girdling roots, as they can trigger a great deal of trouble. Ask your arborist for methods to treat the problem.

If you have a tree or several of them in your garden, you will desire to guarantee their well being. Undoubtedly the last thing you desire to see from a tree survey is that your plants are having issues.

Decreased nutrients and mineral recycling – absence of nutrients is another typical occurrence for trees that share the land with a well-developed lawn and other plants. The main distinction between trees in your lawn and trees in the forest is that the latter benefits from a layer of decaying leaves. What you can do is correctly feed trees with sufficient nutrients and improve soil health.

Apple Trees Planting, Pruning & Care

Apple trees will grow in the moistest yet free-draining soils, avoiding tricky salt-laden air and shallow alkaline soils. Full sun is preferred, but some shade will be tolerated. For Northern positions, chose a hardier variety – see ‘Choosing Apple trees‘.

Our pot grown Apple trees can be planted at any time of the year, whereas bare root Apple trees can only be planted between November and March. Our planting guides contain step by step instructions and videos on how to plant container/rootball trees or plant bare-root trees. These can be used in conjunction with the bullet point advice below that is specific to training Apple trees into various forms.

  • Trees (including dwarf) – Apple trees should be spaced according to their rootstock. The minimum recommended space between trees (e.g. those on a MM106 rootstock) is 15ft / 4.5 and dwarf trees(e.g. those on a M2 rootstock) is 5ft / 1.5. A stake and tie are needed to support your apple tree. Our tree planting kit contains everything you need, including rootgrow and rabbit guard.
  • Cordon M9 – Plant cordon M9 apple trees at least 3ft /1m apart. Cordon trained trees will require a wire support system to be introduced along. Using vine eyes and galvanised wire, create a set of tiers approximately 18 inches apart.
  • Espaliers – Plant espalier apple trees at least 6ft / 1.8m apart. Espalier trained trees will require a wire support system to be introduced along. Using vine eyes and galvanised wire, create a set of tiers. The first tier should be 18 inches above ground level and each subsequent tier 15 inches apart.

Initial Pruning Of A 1-Year-Old Maiden Tree

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Trees – cut the main stem back to around 48 inches between November-March and remove any lower branches. This will encourage lower growing laterals and a clear stem of 36 inches.

Dwarf Trees – cut the main stem back to around 24 inches between November-March. This will encourage lower growing laterals and a clear branch of 12-18 inches.

Cordon M9 – Cut back the main stem to around 24 inches between November-March. This will encourage laterals to grow, which will form the shape of the cordon.

Espaliers – Cut back the main stem to around 18 inches between November-March. This will encourage laterals to grow, which will form the shape of the espalier.

Watering, Feeding & Mulching

If you’re planting in spring, summer or dry weather, water apple trees both well and regularly for the first few months. Then, make sure to keep an eye on these young apple trees and increase watering if there are extended periods of hot or dry weather. 

To check if the soil requires further water, dig a finger down into the soil a few centimetres and if the soil feels even slightly moist, it does not need further watering. If it feels dry, water and repeat this test again. If you’re planting in autumn, you may only need to water your tree a little.

We recommend mulching in spring and applying a general fertiliser such as Growmore in late spring. To mulch, also apply a 3-inch mulch of well-rotted manure or compost to keep the weeds at bay. 

When applying mulch, avoid making contact with the bark of the tree. Bark chips can also be used for this purpose. Keep grass away from the trunk, in the first 3 or 4 years, it is advisable to keep the grass at least 2 foot away from the base of the tree. Mulching can help to achieve this.

Water occasionally, during any long, hot, dry spells in summer, especially as the fruit appears. Most apple trees will establish quickly and not require additional water. Overwatering is often more of a problem than under watering, to get the balance right carry out the check detailed above.

Apple Picking & Storage

Apples will come away easily from the tree with a slight twist if ripe. Many will develop better flavours if left on the tree. How long an apple will store for is dependent on the variety. Using trays to store the fruit is a traditional method but wrapping in paper and placing them into a plastic bag with several small, perforated holes is effective. 

Fold the top of the bag over gently without excluding all of the air and rest the bag folded side down in a cool dark place. Whichever storage method is used, the apples should be checked regularly for rotted fruits, which should be removed immediately.

Pruning Apple Trees

Trees (including dwarf) – The goal is to have 7 or 8 strong branches, primary and secondary, which are well spaced by about four years old. Prune in March. On a two-year-old tree, cut back strong branches to half their length and cut back weaker branches to a third of their length.

On a three-year-old tree, cut out any new growth which crowds the centre of the tree. Next, cut back new growth to about half its length. When pruning an established tree, remove any dead or diseased wood and crossing branches that crowd the centre. Inside, the head of the tree cut back any over-vigorous laterals, leaving the leaders alone. Around the outside of the head, prune little, if at all. All established pruning should take place from November – March.

Cordon – Once the formal pruning has been done, new shoots will grow along the stem. Tie in the central leader to a cane or wire and prune back the lower side laterals to 3 or 4 buds.

To encourage further laterals in early spring cut back the new growth of the leader by about half. Continue the process until the desired height has been reached, and then prune out the leader. Finally, cut back the laterals each year in August, leaving three buds on new wood to encourage fruiting buds to form.

Espalier – Once the formal pruning has been done, a bush of new shoots will grow. Take the first shoot below the pruning cut and tie it straight up to a cane. Next, take one lower shoot to the left and one to the right to form the first tier. Tie them gently with tubing or soft garden twine to your wire, which should be in situ. 

The following winter, cut the single upright shoot to just below where your second tier will sit. Repeat the process until enough tiers are produced. Continue to train the horizontal arms out on wires until the desired width is achieved, then prune in the spring to stop the espalier. The leader should also be removed once the desired height is achieved. 

An established espalier will produce vertical shoots from the horizontal tiers. In August, cut these vertical shoots back, leaving three buds per upright, this will produce your fruiting spurs.

Fruit Tree Pruning

Temperate or stone fruit such as peaches, plums, apples and pears can often be pruned in early February, no matter what the forecasters say. Below, you’ll find good advice and links on pruning, plus a little on blueberry and blackberry care. 

It’s an amalgamation of information from trusted friends in the fruit tree world, including Chandler from The Garden Academy and Beverly Welch with the Arbor Gate. But, unfortunately, it’s mostly a bunch of do’s and don’ts about pruning early in February.

One advantage of living in the “bridge” between the temperate and tropical zones is our ability to grow many varieties from both. The challenge is learning how to take care of them. When late winter is waning, and spring is right around the corner, the temptation to start pruning can be overwhelming, especially when we get a string of sunny days in the 70s. 

But that’s where our wires get crossed. On the one hand, we should prune temperate fruits before they leaf out, but we have winter-weary semi-tropicals and tropicals that we can’t wait to clean up.

Now while I’m giving most of you the okay to prune citrus now, those living in our northern and western suburbs should probably hold off – there may be a surprise frost or two in your future. We often have unexpected frosts in late February and early March.

Each group of fruits has a little different pruning time, based on its growth cycle and fruiting habits. Knowing those habits can help you make good timing decisions.

Temperate fruit trees

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These trees lose their leaves and have a deep-winter dormancy – apples, pears, peaches, nectarines, plums, pluots and apriums. As a result, they require annual pruning to stimulate new fruiting wood, control the size, and maintain a strong structure. 

You should prune them while they are in the dormant stage – as early as January and as late as mid-February,  about the same time we prune roses. However, don’t fear that you will trigger early growth. Leafing and budding are a result of factors other than pruning – chill hours, day length, and temperatures.

If buds are swelling and showing colour, still avoid pruning if a hard freeze is actually forecast. After pruning, all fruit trees are less hardy for two weeks, and fully open fruit flowers can be damaged by late frosts. 

If you are concerned, prune the varieties with the highest chill requirements first, and prune the earliest bloomers at the last possible moment.

Some growers choose to do summer pruning as well. It’s a great way to manage tree size and excess vigour, a characteristic of many temperate fruits. Excess vigour results in vegetative growth, not fruiting growth. Summer pruning should be done soon after harvest.


Citrus trees are semi-tropical, and unlike temperate fruits, they do not need pruning for production. Instead, we prune citrus for appearance, control height and width, and open the tree up for sunlight penetration, air circulation, and a more elegant structure. Avocados are also included in this category.

Citrus and avocados are usually evergreen in our climate, but they can be damaged and even defoliated in our worst winters. It’s hard to tolerate such an unkempt look in our gardens for weeks after a freeze, but it is not wise to rush to clean them up. 

Removing damaged wood exposes undamaged wood to a subsequent frost. Plus, what looks like dead wood may surprise you with new growth in May or June. Therefore, it’s best to remove the apparent damage in stages until you are absolutely sure of its extent.

The standard rule is to wait until very late February or March 1 to prune most citrus. So, waiting a couple more weeks might be in order unless you reside south of Interstate 10. There, I think this year we can move things up a bit. 

However, up north and out west, let’s wait just two more weeks to get to Feb. 15 and check the forecast again. If there’s no threat of even a tiny frost at that point, I’ll swing the barn doors wide and give everyone carte blanche to prune all citrus.

Remember,  pruning reduces cold hardiness for a couple of weeks. If you rush, you run the risk of more damage, even at temperatures that would normally not be a problem.

One perplexing thing about citrus is that fruit or blooms or both always seem to be on the trees when it is time to prune. Some varieties even carry fruit through winter and into spring. 

If the tree has been well pruned in previous years and just needs a light shaping up, don’t worry about the blooms or fruit. Any fruit in your way is harvestable. Citrus produces blooms abundantly and aborts 70-80 percent shortly after blooming, so you can remove many blooms and still have a good harvest.

Plus, a benefit of pruning while the tree is blooming will be your ability to identify fruitwood. You’ll spot areas that might need a bit of thinning to improve sunlight penetration because they won’t have as many blossoms.

If a tree needs regenerative pruning – to thin an overgrown interior, for example, or to greatly reduce the height – give thought to the canopy that will be left. 

Remove about 1/3 of what you anticipate requiring, then wait to see how much canopy the tree develops in the summer. It may take several seasons to get it into the shape you desire.

And if you want to improve fruit production, consider a late-summer or early autumn thinning. A light thinning at that time stimulates fresh fruiting wood. It is perfectly acceptable to do this while the tree is between blooming and fruiting, or even when it is carrying developing fruits.


There are a vast number of tropical fruits that can be grown on the Gulf Coast, and it would be impossible to cover them individually. But in general, most tropical fruits can be pruned right after harvest. Many produce on new wood, and pruning after harvest allows them to spend their energy developing new branches, twigs, and fruitwood. 

If your tropicals have winter damage that needs to be pruned, wait until all danger of frost has passed. It would be good to wait until at least March 15, and even better if you can put things off until the Spring Equinox. Again, keep in mind that pruning reduces cold hardiness for at least two weeks. Be ready to protect them if the weather takes a downward turn.

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